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- This is another of my hacks (the fourth in a row...) for the AOR AR3000
- scanner. This time I tampered with the front end board, in order to
- remove an annoying click which is heard throughout HF, and is due to
- crosstalk between digital command lines and signal input. This click is
- heard a) on the line audio output on the DIN-8 connector, which is
- unmuted, and b) on the loudspeaker, once my "demuting" mod is carried on
- (sorry for the self reference, but...). My mod does not eliminate the
- click completely, but almost. Before the mod, a click is heard whenever
- issuing a command (this includes turning the tuning knob), throughout
- the range 0.1-50 Mhz (remarkably strong below 10 Mhz); afterwards the
- click is almost cancelled above 1Mhz, and easily overwhelmed by signal
- above 0.5 Mhz. I didn't find a way to do, quickly, better than this. In
- this way, the tuning wheel may be spun giving "almost" the feel of an
- analogic vfo... You'll enjoy the whhhooshhh on the unsquelched output
- during free scan... Also, the click noise won't mask weak signals while
- scanning. The other limits of the front end of the AR3000
- (intermodulation, blocking, birdies) will now be fully appreciated. One
- day I'll buy a real shortwave radio.
-
- The click is due likely to leaking of the digital signal on the command
- board, and ultimately to the pcb tracks layout. Sometimes I have the
- impression that the AR3000 must have been conceived as a high end
- receiver, but projected in a rush with a lot of mistakes - check the
- superetherodine conversion pattern, for instance, and you'll find out
- that all the range 940-2036 Mhz is sent trough the same prescaler
- filter, despite that this implies NO image rejection on some frequencies
- and despite that steering signals for additional SHF filters exist on
- board...
-
- What I've find to work is the following:
-
- -one signal has to be routed via a shielded wire rather than via a long
- pcb track.
-
- -two capacitors can be added between two digital lines and ground. True,
- you're not exactly supposed to short a CMOS output to ground with a
- 4.7nF capacitor, you'd rather make an RC filter to the next input... it
- works so don't bother.
-
- What I'm describing here refers properly to my old 1989ish AR3000. I
- have also the schematics of the 1991ish 3000A: the circuit seems exactly
- the same, so I suppose the problem.
-
- The mod is easy but tampers on SMD - shall I insist once more that I
- TAKE NO RESPONSIBILITY for how you may screw your scanner up?
-
- Just a bit of theory: command signals for the front-end are fed
- _serially_ by the cpu, and parallelized by three 4094 shift registers
- (IC1-3) connected in cascade. When the cpu wants to change something on
- the front end, it sends a string of command bits, a clock for moving
- them across the registers, and then a strobe pulse to make the outputs
- active. We'll put a capacitor on the clock line, we'll route via
- shielded wire the overflow of IC1 which goes to the input of IC2, and
- we'll add a capacitor on that line too.
-
- Operation:
- ----------
-
- -disconnect the power cord, unscrew the and remove the covers, and go to
- the front end, which is the upper board. You may want to unscrew it in
- order to solder the capacitors on the lower side, though you can do all
- the job on the upper side, without unscrewing. If you unscrew it, you'll
- have to plug off J1 (the antenna connector), J1 on the lowermost board
- (the front end output, which is soldered on the front end and called
- there J4). Labels are printed on the board. You'll also have to be
- gentle when turning upside down the board, and to be careful not to
- deform the coils.
-
- -the track to replace with a shielded wire is the one which connects pin
- 9 of IC1 with pin 2 of IC2. This track runs mostly on the upper side of
- the board. The upper part starts on the upper board just beside pin 4 of
- connector J5, and runs mostly parallel to the backpanel until past the
- central screw, close to the relais, where it sinks back to the lowest
- side (no drawings, please). This has to be cut in two places, as close
- as possible to the board crossing points. Scrap them with a sharp tip.
- Solder a shielded wire between the two points. The shield can be
- grounded practically anywhere, as the ground track covers most of the
- side. The wire can be fastened to the board with a drop of hot melt.
-
- -Solder a 6.8nF capacitor between this track and ground. I found it
- easiest at the relais end. (it could be up to 33nF, more than that
- would prevent normal functioning).
-
- -solder a 4.7nF capacitor (up to some 15nF) on the clock line, i.e.
- between pin 1 of J8 and ground. I found it more confortable on the SMD
- side, just at the pin of the connector, but the clock track is also
- available on the upper side. It sinks to the lower side just beside pin
- 9 of J8, between J8 and the electrolitic capacitor C80, and is
- surrounded by a convenient ground track.
-
- -rescrew, reconnect connectors if you disconnected, close the unit and
- enjoy.
-
- A final note: I'm indebted to Henry Laviers <hl1@acpub.duke.edu>, who
- sent me a copy of the service manual two years ago, and to Marc Gauw
- <marcgauw@simplex.nl> who forwarded me the schematics of the 3000A
- (which should be available and orderable from aor-uk, just to prevent
- requests to us).
-
- I'd like to very much hear comments or to know if anyone has tried other
- hacks on the same box. Please email me.
-
- Enrico Segre, segre@polito.it
-
- PS: check out also my previous 3 hacks for improving the audio bass
- fidelity, narrowing AM to 6kHz, and removing the cpu muting - they
- should be in the same directory of this one.
-